[General] Winter projects - Auto trans, cooling system, AC - maintenance, questions

[EdR5150]

I'm going to attempt some projects this winter, which I'll try to cover in this thread. First issue:

My car has an automatic transmission. A previous owner installed a separate cooler for the AT in front of the radiator and AC condensor. I'm unsure about it's effectiveness, but it's never been a problem that I know of. I do know it's another possible source for leaks, which I believe Dave mentions here. Now I'm faced with the problem of replacing the AC condensor. I was thinking of adding the new aluminum radiator while working in that area. This extra cooler is a roadblock, and I think I'd prefer to remove it all, return it to stock, and install the Grady AT Cooler.

Pictures from my car:





It looks like one of the hoses that connects to transmission cooler pipe was cut, and the extra cooler was spliced into it. I don't know how hard it would be to replace that hose.

Any thoughts or comments so far?

[DMCMW Dave]

It's hard without the right tools and practice, the upper fitting is difficult to swing a wrench on.

If they didn't cut the metal lines you may be able to just replace the rubber hose, but access is a pain in either case. Get the right hose, it's very hot oil you're dealing with here. Original is one part (number) that includes the metal ends.

Originally Posted by EdR5150

I'm going to attempt some projects this winter, which I'll try to cover in this thread. First issue:

It looks like one of the hoses that connects to transmission cooler pipe was cut, and the extra cooler was spliced into it. I don't know how hard it would be to replace that hose.

Any thoughts or comments so far?

[jtrealty]

IMHO unless you do a lot of desert driving you probably can get by fine on the stock cooler for the transmission. You do not need to go to an aluminum radiator, the copper 3 row is plenty. Replacing the trans hoses is not that hard, access is limited but doable. P J Grady does sell a heat sink that wraps around the transmission cooler and you can also add a heat shield around the exhaust cross/over pipe that runs above the transmission. While you are there make VERY sure all of the wires for the shift computer are nowhere near where they can get caught in moving parts or melted by hot exhaust parts. If you are worried about the transmission flush the trans fluid and do a line pressure test. Why are you replacing the condensor coil? Is one of the fittings damaged? From the pictures it looks like a semi-professional install of a Hayden transmission cooler. My big problem with it is the fittings look awful. If ANY was to blow apart you will toast the transmission quickly.
David Teitelbaum

[EdR5150]

Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

It's hard without the right tools and practice, the upper fitting is difficult to swing a wrench on.

Originally Posted by jtrealty

Replacing the trans hoses is not that hard, access is limited but doable.

Yeah, I can see access sucks. I'll try to find some wrenches that work. I'm not starting this job until I know I can finish it.

Originally Posted by jtrealty

Why are you replacing the condensor coil? Is one of the fittings damaged?

Yeah, I bent the fitting when I tried to remove a hose. If it's been compromised, I'd rather replace it then charge the system back up only to find it leaks.

Originally Posted by jtrealty

My big problem with it is the fittings look awful. If ANY was to blow apart you will toast the transmission quickly.

Another reason I'd like to return it to stock.

[EdR5150]

Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

If they didn't cut the metal lines you may be able to just replace the rubber hose, but access is a pain in either case.

They didn't cut the metal lines, but I don't see how I'd be able to replace the hose without removing the metal ends. The hose they cut is the one near the front of the transmission by the fluid pump - the one with very poor access. I'm going to shop for wrenches tomorrow.

I'm also interested in maybe splicing the hose back together with a joint and some clamps:

Any opinions?

I know draining the fluid is know it's supposed to be done while hot, and it flows better. Is there any problem with draining the fluid while it's cold?

[jtrealty]

You do not have to drain the transmission to replace the hoses. If the fluid is not nice and red or if it smells burnt you should have it power flushed and replaced. I would not try to reuse the pieces, just buy the two hoses. If you do not use the right hose and properly clamp it on, it can blow off and you can melt your transmission. For the price of the hoses it isn't worth it. On the forward hose you must hold back the fitting with a wrench. Long-handled open ends are the weapons of choice. Once you break the fittings loose you should be able to undo them with your fingers. After you are all finished make sure you recheck your fluid level as per the manual. Good idea to also check the final drive level. In fact, while you are underneath you should check ALL of the external adjustments. And make sure the wiring for the shift computer is secured away from moving parts and the exhaust. And take a look at the mounts for cracks.
David Teitelbaum

[EdR5150]

Update: I was able to loosen and tighten the big fitting on the hose. Why are there two fittings? Is the big one a reducing fitting?


A big long 22mm open end wrench was what I needed. I'm only replacing one hose since the other wasn't tampered with. I'll add it to my shopping list for DMCMW.

Replacing the coolant hoses under the car is also on my list of projects. Every hose seems hard, brittle, and even showing a drop or two of coolant leaking out. Are there any problems with partially draining the coolant system (still some in the engine), and keeping is drained for several days?

[DMCMW Dave]

The small one is a flare pipe fitting that fits into the large one. The large one screws into the trans with a seal washer. That's the difficult part - unless you get the smaller one loose from the large one (so you can unscrew it without having to rotate the hose) you can't get it out. You will need to hold the large one and unscrew the small one from it.

Very occasionally you'll have to cut the metal hose short and just unscrew the large one, if you are replacing the hose assembly that's not necessarily a bad option.

You can drain the cooling system and leave it open more or less indefinitely. At least for the rest of the winter anyway.

Originally Posted by EdR5150

Update: I was able to loosen and tighten the big fitting on the hose. Why are there two fittings? Is the big one a reducing fitting?


A big long 22mm open end wrench was what I needed. I'm only replacing one hose since the other wasn't tampered with. I'll add it to my shopping list for DMCMW.

Replacing the coolant hoses under the car is also on my list of projects. Every hose seems hard, brittle, and even showing a drop or two of coolant leaking out. Are there any problems with partially draining the coolant system (still some in the engine), and keeping is drained for several days?