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| General DeLorean Discussion Tech help and certain general discussions of the DeLorean, DeLorean Motor Company, and John Z. DeLorean. |
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#11 |
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formerly Stunned Monkey
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: England
VIN: 4772, 3352 - ex 4748, 1458, 4426, 11766, 1484
Posts: 1,412
Blog Entries: 3
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Original DeLorean 68/32 is a Saab 90 unit and is identical in construction from the 50/50 900 unit except for the two springs that sparate the chambers, that puts the offset in.
For the time and effort involved in rebuilding one and the very good chance that the bore will be corroded, why not just buy a ew one? They aren't expensive! http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product...oducts_id=2566 |
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#12 |
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Thorn in the purists' sides...
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Autozone and Advance only show SAAB 900 units.
I wonder if John is xRef'ing 900 or 90 models? http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean...e-mast-cyl.jpg Bill Robertson #5939
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#13 |
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formerly Stunned Monkey
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: England
VIN: 4772, 3352 - ex 4748, 1458, 4426, 11766, 1484
Posts: 1,412
Blog Entries: 3
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90 was very rare - I bought up all the original Girling units some years ago. Easily identifiable by the red band.
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#14 |
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 3
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Here is where I'm at so far.
![]() I think I will just order the Scan-Tech, since I need to order some other stuff from Eeuro too. The MC I grabbed was off an 83 900 turbo at the u pull it for $13. I am much more of a fix it myself type guy, I love to tinker and assemble/dissasemble, I actually have more faith in myself than a remand unit from Autozone. Pic of the car's first project under my ownership last June. ![]() I used the head and intake from a 93 non turbo 900 with a 2.1 for better flow and the car's original 85 exhaust cam (one year only best one)
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#15 | |
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formerly Stunned Monkey
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: England
VIN: 4772, 3352 - ex 4748, 1458, 4426, 11766, 1484
Posts: 1,412
Blog Entries: 3
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Quote:
Understood, and that's admirable, but the problem with brake system parts is brake fluid is hydroscopic and internal parts corrode, pitting the walls of the m/c and tearing the new seals. Don't be surprised if your rebuild won't bleed. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1,738
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Especially on MC's that have been sitting in a junk yard.
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#17 | |
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DMC Owner - England UK
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: England UK
Posts: 329
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Quote:
Hygroscopic not Hydroscopic Hydrosacopic - devices that can be used for listening under water Hygroscopy is the ability of a substance to attract water molecules from the surrounding environment through either absorption or adsorption I've waited years to bring that little nugget of pointless knowledge into use. J Last edited by JamesRGUK; 11-21-2009 at 05:53 AM. |
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#19 |
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Delorean Guru
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Northern New Jersey USA
VIN: 10757
My Club: DMA
Posts: 1,387
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Getting back to the topic, if you need to rebuild the master cylinder chances are it is corroded inside, that is why you have to rebuild it! The seals got torn up moving over the corrosion. If it's not too bad you can sometimes clean it up enough with a hone. If it is deeply pitted it has to be sleeved or your rebuild will leak. If the master is corroded chances are the calipers at each wheel are also corroded. And the clutch system too (if it's a 5-speed). That's why a reman'd unit is a good choice (especially if your piece is corroded). Since the brake fluid is hygroscopic you should be replacing the fluid every 2 years. Once it starts getting dark and thick it is way past due.
David Teitelbaum |
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